liquid latex<\/a> or rubber, and if stretched too far, it can tear. Not all silicone products are the same either\u2014some cheaper options may not cure properly or may degrade quickly over time.<\/span><\/p>\nTip: When buying silicone for mould making, always choose a trusted brand with good user reviews. Low-cost options may seem appealing but can lead to failed casts and wasted materials.<\/b><\/p>\n<\/span>Types of Silicone for Mould Making<\/span><\/span><\/h2>\n![\"best](\"https:\/\/www.treasurehouseofmakeup.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/best-silicone-for-mould-making-types.jpg\")
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When looking for the best silicone for mould making UK makers rely on, understanding the different types available is a solid starting point.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThe two most commonly used are tin cure (also called condensation cure) and platinum cure (also called addition cure). Each has specific benefits, depending on the project.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span>Tin vs Platinum: What’s the Difference?<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nBoth tin and platinum silicones are RTV (room temperature vulcanising), which means they cure without added heat. The difference lies in the catalyst used:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Tin silicone uses tin salts to start the curing process<\/span><\/li>\n
- Platinum silicone uses platinum as the catalyst<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
This small change makes a big impact on working time, flexibility, cost, and durability.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span>Tin Cure (Condensation Cure) Silicone<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nTin cure is one of the most accessible types of silicone for mould making, especially for large-scale or one-off projects. It\u2019s cheaper, easier to mix, and typically has a longer pot life (more time to work before it begins curing).<\/span><\/p>\nKey Features:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Often used for industrial moulds, props, candle waxes, and general casting<\/span><\/li>\n
- Compatible with resin, plaster, and wax<\/span><\/li>\n
- Resistant to inhibition \u2014 cures well on almost any surface<\/span><\/li>\n
- Typically mixed at a 10:1 ratio (base to catalyst)<\/span><\/li>\n
- Not skin-safe and not suitable for life casting<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
However, tin silicone has a shorter shelf life. A mould making silicone made with a tin base may only last 12 months before it begins to tear or leach. It\u2019s ideal for short-term or high-volume use, but not for making long-lasting moulds.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span>Platinum Cure (Addition Cure) Silicone<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nIf you’re casting prosthetics, life-casting, or making detailed reusable moulds, platinum cure silicone is usually the best silicone for mould making. It offers greater tear strength, longer mould life, and higher detail capture.<\/span><\/p>\nKey Features:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- High tear strength and reusability<\/span><\/li>\n
- Very low shrinkage<\/span><\/li>\n
- Skin-safe (ideal for special effects and prosthetics)<\/span><\/li>\n
- Can be mixed with additives like thinners, thickeners, or pigments<\/span><\/li>\n
- Shorter working time, may require a retarder for complex pours<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
However, platinum silicones are more sensitive to inhibition. If your master or tools contain sulphur (like some clays or latex gloves), curing can fail entirely.<\/span><\/p>\nTip: Silicone sticks to silicone\u2014always use a release agent when pouring one into another, and avoid cross-contamination between tin and platinum cure systems.<\/b><\/p>\n<\/span>Addition Cure Silicones<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nWhen choosing the best silicone for mould making UK artists can trust for professional work, addition cure (platinum cure) silicones often come out on top. These are the go-to choice for lifecasting, prosthetic applications, and any project where detail and durability matter.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span>Why Use Addition Cure Silicone?<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n![\"best](\"https:\/\/www.treasurehouseofmakeup.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/best-silicone-for-mould-making-why-use-addition.jpg\")
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Addition cure silicones are incredibly versatile. They\u2019re skin-safe, have virtually no shrinkage, and can be used to cast everything from fine art pieces to wearable SFX prosthetics. If you\u2019re working in makeup, props, or model-making, these silicones give you the accuracy and finish you need.<\/span><\/p>\nWhat makes them even more flexible (no pun intended) is the wide range of additives available. Depending on the job, you can tweak the mix with:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Thickeners for vertical application<\/span><\/li>\n
- Thinners for better flow into fine detail<\/span><\/li>\n
- Retarders to slow down curing if you need more working time<\/span><\/li>\n
- Accelerators to speed up the process for quick moulds<\/span><\/li>\n
- Pigments to colour your silicone for visible prosthetics or finished castings<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
This customisation is one of the reasons why platinum silicone is often seen as the best silicone for mold making, especially for professionals.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span>Avoiding Inhibition<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nOne thing to watch out for with platinum cure silicones is inhibition\u2014when the silicone refuses to cure. This is usually caused by contaminants like:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Sulphur (found in some clays)<\/span><\/li>\n
- Latex (found in gloves and mask materials)<\/span><\/li>\n
- Residue from tin-cure silicones<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
To avoid inhibition, use sulphur-free clay and nitrile or vinyl gloves. Keep your working environment clean and separate materials that could interfere with curing.<\/span><\/p>\nTip: Always check that your gloves, tools, and master are free of latex and sulphur before pouring a platinum silicone. Even a small amount can stop it from curing properly.<\/b><\/p>\n<\/span>Working Time and Cure Time<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nOne of the key differences between platinum and tin cure silicones is how fast they set. Platinum silicones often have shorter working times. This can be helpful for quick casts, but if you’re working with a larger or more detailed mould, it might be too fast.<\/span><\/p>\nYou can slow the process down using a retarder or by chilling your materials slightly. This gives you more time to mix, de-gas, and pour.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/span>Making Your First Silicone Mould<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nTo get started, you\u2019ll need a few basic supplies:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- A master (the object you\u2019re casting)<\/span><\/li>\n
- Liquid mould making silicone<\/span><\/li>\n
- A mould housing box (can be acrylic, plastic, or cardboard lined with tape)<\/span><\/li>\n
- A release agent (optional, but useful for tricky shapes)<\/span><\/li>\n
- Material to cast into the mould (e.g. resin, wax, or soap)<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
<\/span>One-Piece vs Two-Piece Moulds<\/span><\/span><\/h3>\nBefore pouring, decide whether your mould will be one-piece or two-piece.<\/span><\/p>\nOne-piece moulds work well for simple shapes with one flat side. They’re quick to make and easy to use.<\/span><\/p>\nTwo-piece moulds are better for complex shapes with undercuts or full 3D detail. These take more time to set up but give you better flexibility for detailed casting.<\/span><\/p>\nIf you\u2019re unsure, start with a one-piece mould to practise mixing and pouring.<\/span><\/p>\n